BATH, CINQUE TERRE AND SARDINIA DAY 3 – SPEEDHENGE

One last very civilized breakfast at The Bird and we’re on our way.  Once we’re out of Bath proper, it’s another beautiful drive through the British countryside on our way to Stonehenge, one of the 10 ancient wonders of the world.  Normally, we would leave several hours to see such a magnificent sight, to learn about its history and soak in all we can about this fascinating achievement that I have dreamt of seeing my entire life.  But not today folks.

(click on the pic to view the full size image)

We’re this close, so there’s no way we’re not going to see it.  After all, who knows if we will ever be in the area again?  But we have an early afternoon flight out of Gatwick, which is 2 hours away.  So here’s the Speedhenge plan.  Mandy books the first timed tickets when the gate opens at 9:30.  We’ll get there early so we’re literally first through the gate and onto the first shuttle from the gate to the Stones.  That’ll give us about 30 minutes to hang out at the main event itself and hop on the shuttle back.

Plan goes off without a hitch and here we are, way ahead of the crowds, with only a few other earlybirds.  Stonehenge, built in we-didn’t-have-time-to-find-out-when by we-don’t-know-who stands some-number-of-feet high and, despite our complete lack of backstory, is still freaking amazing.  We have fun taking pictures and marveling at the engineering feat and it’s durability.

Back on the road and we make the airport without too much stress.  Security, however is another issue.  We’re traveling with only roll-aboard bags, and, unbeknownst to us, absolutely all liquid must come out to go through the screening machines, something we’ve never encountered in any country before.  Wholly unprepared, we need to rip open our cases and root through to find everything like complete amateurs.  Ugg. 

Once you’re in Europe, flights are simple and cheap.  The flight from London to Pisa, with front seats and bags, was about $150 total for both of us.  The easyJet flight goes smoothly and it seems our new strategy of “get to Europe as cheaply as possible in business class then launch from there” is paying off.  We land in Pisa and walk 500m to the car rental counter where we pick up our Fiat Panda, the ubiquitous, utilitarian clown car of Europe and we’re on our way to LaSpezia.  Normally, we would just train from here, but because of some odd timing, we’re going to Leave the Panda in the parking lot under the train station for a few days.  Hand gesturing and pseudo-Italianing, we navigate the rail station counter and hop the train for the 12 minute ride to Riomaggiore, the southernmost village of the Cinque Terre (“5 Lands”) and our home base for the next 3-1/2 days.  Stefano, the affable Airbnb host greets us warmly as we step off the train and walks us a block to our apartment, a two bedroom, two bath flat on the top floor of a 6 story, 20 unit building.  Stephano proudly shows us about the place and has generously stocked it with everything we need for breakfast for the entire stay, plus enough beer, wine, champaign and coffee for week.   

We say our goodbyes and head into RIO-ma-joor-ah Centro for some dinner.  We pick Il Grottino because it’s adorable, a tiny space with a few tables out front, and has a nice local menu.  Anchovies are a local staple, and we dive right in with Mandy bravely ordering the fried version as an appy.  Unlike what we’re used to in the States, these are mild and delicious and go especially well with the carafe of the minerally local house white wine.  Pesto is another regional favorite, and our next course, tossed with some fresh pasta, EVOO and pinoli.  The main event is the grilled mixed fish platter with seabass, langostino, cuddlefish, octopus and whatever else was in the net today.  It’s been a long day, but we stretch our legs a bit with a walk past the marina on our way to dreamland.