Montana Day 9 - Last Stop on the Way Home

Our flight leaves at 12:30 out of Bozeman. We make town early for breakfast. Mandy heard about the Western Cafe on Main Street. We sit at the counter and quickly strike up conversations with local ranchers. They're friendly, interesting, rugged and seasoned.  I can't resist the chicken fried steak, especially as Mandy has already told me I'm on a strict diet of rabbit food and gym workouts starting tomorrow. She gets the bluecakes and we love both.

The Bozeman Airport is easy, clean and charming. Back to reality. For a while.

Montana Day 8 - K-Bar and the Boiling River

Our second day in Yellowstone and it's just as fascinating as the first. We did the southern loop yesterday, so we're doing the northern loop today.  We make a morning stop at the Artists Paint Pots, a thermal feature with wild colors and diversity.

We seen a lot already, and are still excited by every stop. We pull into Norris Geyser Basin and we are even more amazed. It's otherworldly. 

The food in the park is marginal at best, so on a recommendation from a fellow bar patron last night we head out the north entrance into the town of Gardiner. Mandy has been craving pizza, and we were told that K-Bar was the place. The tiny center of town is right out of gold rush / railroad boom / every 1950s western. Don, The bartender took our pizza order and brought me a local Scotch Ale, the 4th of its kind on this trip.  Don explains that winters are long and they get good at stuff. We find out that Don is from New Jersey and the pizza maker is from Pennsylvania, and when they find out we're from the Philly area, they are very anxious to find out what we think of the pie. It's top notch.  The sauce, cheese and sausage is delicious.  The crust is different, thin but dense, and gives the pie it's own out west personality (Don thinks it's the water.)  All on all it would hold its own with the best joints in NYC or Philly.

Just two and a half miles back into the park, we go to the Boiling River, little known feature visited by only a hundred or two hundred people a day.  It's a 100 yard section where the Boiling River Hot Springs flow into the icy Gardner river. The spring will literally burn you, and the river will turn you toes blue in minutes. But here where it mixes, you can go into the water for a very surreal experience. Moving an inch in either direction changes the temperature radically, and standing still one side of you can be too hot while the other side is freezing. We find our happy place and take a nice long soak, seeing how close we can move our hands to the steaming waterfall before pulling them back. It's the only place in the park we found to touch the features, and it gave us a deeper understanding of the vents, geysers and pools we had been seeing. A definite park highlight.

On our way out of the park, we pass the fires again. They're bigger, spreading, more smoky. We stop on the east side of the park to watch the fire helicopters do their work.

Dinner at the Gallatin Riverhouse Grill, a locals bar with giant Jenga and a swings bar outside (not swingers, a square bar with swings for seats) and ridiculous BBQ inside. The sampler platter for 2 would feed 4. The sauce is just how I like it tangy and not at all sweet, so a few Montana Mules are the right compliment.

Montana Day 7 - A Geyser, a Bison and a Rainbow (because... America)

Our first day in Yellowstone. Glacier brought out our adventurous side, letting us escape the crowds and find solitude on long, challenging, rewarding hikes. We quickly realize that Yellowstone is a very different experience.

We get to the park early and head to Old Faithful. We get there and see the last minute or two of the geyser.  We decide to hang around for 91 minutes to see the next eruption. We walk the boardwalk though a large geyser field around Old Faithful, and are glad we did. It's fascinating. We realize that we're just going to put on our black socks and sandals and join the ranks of the common tourist. Accepting our tourista fate, we finish our walk and take our seat to see the full Faithful show.

There is a single, huge bison sitting about 20 yards in front of the geyser, enjoying his breakfast and the warm morning sun. We sit so he will be in our pictures. When the spout starts, the mist makes a bright horizontal rainbow, and all three elements make it into picture of the day.

About being a tourist. We generally think we're above it, opting for less traveled, more exotic routes. The National Park Service has done a great job at making the features of Yellowstone easily accessible to all, and all come. It's the most popular national park for good reason. The thermal features are really a wonder, and we realize that we're happy that we have joined the ranks of the century of people who have come to partake. I know that millions of people have photographed the features I was clicking, and yet I couldn't take enough shots.

Of course, the other most popular feature of the park is the animal interaction. We see herds of bison and elk, and even a Grizzly. The bison and elk are as close as the shoulder of the road and practically pose for pictures. The bear was (thankfully) on the other side of a stream and was unfazed at the dozens of people on the opposite bank.  At one point we pull into a parking lot next to the marina, and the lot is inhabited by about two dozen bison. Near a dumpster, a calf is nursing on his mother. Having fully committed to our tourist status, we do the obvious- selfie!

We stop at the continental divide and check out the little lake right on the peak that drains both east and west.  The park is enormous, with the main loop being 142 miles around and only one road that bisects the middle.  It's just not a place you can rush through and we stay later than we expected. On our way out, we see a few of the wildfires that are plaguing the area. They are close, so close that you can see the fire and the dense smoke fills the valley like heavy fog.

Back in Big Sky, we decide on Buck's T-4 for dinner, just up the road from our lodge. We start with the pork belly app, which is what would happen if a pound of bacon mated with a stick of butter.  I get the Red Deer, medium rare of course, and Mandy orders the Wagyu flat iron salad.  There is apparantly something about seeing all these majestic creatures that makes us want to eat them all.  I've had venison many different ways, and not only is this cooked to perfection, but its served over some of the finest risotto you will ever find. We're foodies and it's a delight to find such well done dishes night after night. 

Montana Day 6 - Whitefish to Big Sky

It's a 6 hour drive, and we took the slightly longer and far more beautiful drive through the Swan Valley. We stop in Big Fork for lunch. We find the Old Bridge Pub & Sub, a little place that had only opened a month earlier. We sat at the bar and chatted with Don, the owner. The elk brat was out of this world, but the polenta fries with pesto aioli were even better, crispy and decadent.

The rest of the drive takes us through the Swan Valley, past Swan Lake, Helena and to Seeley Lake.  It's exactly the Montana drive we had hoped for, sweeping roads over mountains, across wide valleys and through massive farms. We're alone on the highway for over an hour in a few places, maxing our cruise control out at 90 and even pushing our little SUV to 110 on the long flat straights. Mandy now understands "cows dotting the landscape" as we pass by huge herds happily grazing. Seemingly always surrounded 360 by soaring peaks, It's right out of the song - purple mountains magistry and amber waves.

We pit stop in Three Forks, and check out the Sacajewia Hotel and the start of the Missouri River. The hotel is beautifully restored and you can feel the railroad barons smoking cigars and drinking brown liquor in the lobby. 

We check into the Rainbow Ranch around 6. Dinner at the six seat lobby bar with Dale the bartender included the best trout we have ever tasted, a fat medium rare elk t-bone and some good brown liquor of our own.  A dip in the infinity hot tub under the Montana stars then a deep sleep in our lodge room.

Montana Day 5 - Granite Park Chalet and the High Line Trail

Our second day in the park. Highline Trail has been closed the last couple of days for excessive bear activity. The Bears are getting ready for hibernation and eating everything they can find.  We get to the park and the ranger at the front gate tells us that the trail is open again, although the closed signs are still hanging at The Loop trailhead will we get there at 8 a.m. Luke goes straight up for over three and a half miles and 3000 feet in elevation, ending at the Granite Park Chalet. We are all alone on this challenging trail with plenty of fresh evidence of recent bear crossings. We push upward making as much noise as we possibly can. Near the top we rewarded with a better straight out of Heidi, and the matching vintage Chalet perched precariously on the top of the mountain. The views are WOW (think Steve Martin in Dirty Rotten Scoundrels). 

We eat half for lunch at the Chalet, and Mandy is surprised that anything could rival our picnic on the glacier the day  before.

The next 7 and a half miles to Logan pass is some of the craziest hiking you can imagine. Paths only 1 to 2 feet wide with sheer drop offs of thousands of feet.  You feel like you're on the edge of the Earth, because you are.  We take hundreds of pictures, but none do justice to the enormity of it all.

Back in Whitefish, we have dinner at the Tupelo Grill, another great dining  experience. Bison meatballs, elk sliders, an incredible roasted cauliflower dish and some of the best heirloom tomatoes we've had.

We go to bed sore, buzzy and happy.

Montana Day 4 - Picnic on a Glacier

We woke up early headed to Glacier National Park. Box lunches from the hotel, good strong coffee and we're off.  Entering the West entrance of the park, head up Going-to-the-Sun Road, the most appropriately named highway in the world. It's one of the must do drives in the country, watching the landscape change frequently with elevation. We stopped at Logan pass, the high point of the road, with beautiful vistas in all directions. It's cold, low forties in late August, but we're dressed in lots of layers. Iceberg Lake Trail is closed for Bear activity, so we decide to head to East Glacier for the Grinnell Glacier hike.

The trail starts at the Many Glaciers Hotel, a beautiful property but long past its prime. It's about 7 and half miles up to Grinnell glacier. The views of the three lakes are stunning, and we were surprised at how frequently the blue water changes to an even crazier deeper blue. The landscape of the mountain changes frequently from flowered sloping medows to evergreen forest to unforgiving steep Granite Mountain sides with narrow paths. It's challenging and completely worth it.

Mandy tells me lunch on Grinnell Glacier is the greatest picnic ever.

Rain starts as soon as we start to descend, but fortunately we're prepared. 5 miles in the rain but surprisingly comfortable the entire time. Feet aching, we head out the east entrance of the park.  Not much to be had in the towns on the eastern side of the park, and we're starving. We take a chance on the Summit Mountain Lodge and Steakhouse and it was fantastic. The young waiter knew the menu very well and found us some delicious scotch.  The steak was perfectly prepared and just the thing for the end of our day.

 

Montana Day 3 - Missoula to Whitefish

It's my Birthday! Started with Tom's amazing scones and delicious french roast promptly delivered at 6:45.  Perfect warm up for another delicious breakfast.  The french toast covered with raspberry preserves and local peppered thick cut bacon. Yum!  Again beautifully plated complete with candles for our birthdays

We hit the road but not before grabbing a couple of to go cups from the Loose Caboose.  Coffee culture is great in this town with Fotomat size coffee drive thru's with top shelf brews.  3 shot cappuccino for me and dark roast for Mandy.

Headed towards St Ignatus Mission and the National Bison Range.  Rolling thru Arlee we can't resist the Huckleberry Patch.  Its exactly what you think souvenirs and locally made Huckleberry goods.  Grabbed nice gifts to bring home and a fat slice of Huckleberry Pie for later.  The staff couldn't be nicer and offered to take our booty to the Post Office and ship it home for us.  (Thanks Leah!)  We don't get a block away and are drawn in to the Hummingbird's "60 types of black licorice" sign, Mandy's favorite.  We leave with more than six.

Almost to the Mission and stop for roadside local cherries  Tiny little trailer run by the best nine year in the business.  He offers Mandy a sample to close the deal.  Mandy gets a big bad and he finishes by adding napkins and a bag for the pits. Fat, rich, sweet and juicy, we had no idea Montana cherries were a thing.  We're starting to think they are trying to keep this stuff a secret on purpose.

Get to the Mission, unimpressed and drive by. About 20 minutes to the Buffalo Range.  Pressed for time we decide on the short loop which takes about an hour.  The Elk are fun but  the Buffalo are obviously the stars of the show. Within feet of the car we get great  pictures, A definite highlight and must do if you are within a few hours.  Leave time for the full loop which may add Mountain Goats and Big Horn Sheep.

Still a long way to Whitefish so we search for lunch.  Always up for something local, we stop at the Branding Iron Bar & Grill in Calhoun.  Great Burgers and a nice selection of cold local beers.

Around the east side of Flathead Lake Tom recommended a vantage point from the public dock at mile 16.  It's called Yellow Bay and has stunning panoramic views of the impossibly blue lake and surrounding mountains.  We forget all about our hurry, kick off our shoes, dangle our feet into the cool water and lay back on the dock.  OK, not cool, down right cold!  An amazing corner of the earth for just the two of us to enjoy quiet and alone.  On the way to the car Mandy hear's a knock knock knock and we spot a great big red crested Woodpecker plying his trade on a nearby stump.  One of those moments you just know you were meant to be here.

We haul ass to Whitefish pushing our little SUV to its limits.  Make the hotel by four.  The Firebrand Hotel is very new and we are reservation # 618.  Check-in goes smooth, hotel is stylish and fits the vibe of the town, upcoming, artsy but with a deep sense of it's own heritage.  It's the right town for us as most of the hotels around and in Glacier National Park appear past their prime.  Aaahhh, that new hotel smell.

The town is cool but they seem to roll up the sidewalks around 7.  It's a shame because there are a lot of interesting stores we will probably never see. Light dinner, exhausted and bed around 10.  Tomorrow we head to the Park and cannot wait to drive Going to the Sun Road!

     

Montana Day 2 Missoula.

It's a coffee culture, and we woke to the smell of some of the best coffee we ever had waiting outside our door. Scones on the tray are unbelievably light.  I scheduled an in-room massage at 11. After breakfast, we hike the M. A must-do with great panoramic views.  Surprisingly steep and lots of options.

Back to the room. We've had some great massages in some great places, so we're skeptical. Simply put, best massage ever. We nap and shower and hit the road, headed to Bear Creek at Bitterroot, starving.

It's a casino culture and funny to us. Essentially a "casino" on every corner, in every gas station.  I'm all about a Roadside attraction, so we stop at the Hayloft in Lolo for a bite and a look. It's gross and apparently where Prescious Moments go to die. You can see the cartoon smoke trail as we leave, still starving. End up a mile away at Lolo Peak Brewing. Much bedda.  Get the bison burger.

On to Bear Creek. Fun drive, great hike. Moderately challenging with fantastic boulder fields. The water is low, so we explore the cascades and falls up close. Mandy takes on some pretty adventurous climbing at my urging. It's worth it.  We take a different route back to the highway and find the most picturesque barn.

Back into town in quest of a Dirty Girl. It's a drink at the Tamarack with their home brewed root beer and local Orphan Girl Bourbon Cream. Think adult root beer float. We head up the block to further support the local economy at the Montgomery Distillery. Unexpectedly great craft drinks. Super friendly people around the bar.  I can't understand why they close at 8pm

Our plan was to grab some takeout at Notorious P.I.G. BBQ. We walk in and are told that they are sold out. Sold out. A restaurant. We're from Philly, and one thing we know for sure. If you show up at Pat's or Gino's, anytime of the day or night, the will have a cheesesteak for you. They will never be sold out.

Mandy checks her list. The Red Bird is close. I'm not convinced, but we try it. Walking into the lobby, we expect to see Don Draper in one of the rotary dial phone booths.  We order the Savory Cheesecake, lamb kabob and the beautiful house salad we see someone else having at the bar. Delicious, well created, perfectly cooked and beautifully plated. Andrew was a knowledgeable waiter and really made the experience better.