VENICE CROATIA DAY 6 – A Warm Welcome From The Rain

 

A Warm Welcome From The Rain

We leave early heading to the Plitvice Lakes region, our only inland stop of the trip, but much anticipated for the promise of good hiking.  It’s been an interesting trip to pack for, needing everything from a nice suit for the opera to heavy hiking boots for the next few days.  Our bulging bags barely fit in the back of the Toyota Aygo, but our bellman has squeezed them in by the time we are done breakfast.  Boren, our driver from Venice to Rovinj, suggested we take the more scenic route, skirting the coastline to Senj then turning to head west.  It takes an hour longer, but that’s OK as we’re hoping the rain will pass by the time we reach our destination.

We try to rent small cars in Europe as they are most appropriate for the roads, and we have had some embarrassingly underpowered vehicles in our travels.  Our Irish Opal Corsa was a standout in this category until the Aygo, a diminutive, 72 horsepower crossover with a manual transmission hits number one with a bullet.  Every car I have ever driven has at least some power band, that combination of engine RPM and gear selection where maximum performance happens.  Not the Aygo, which has already earned the nickname “Eggo” due to its inability to outrun a box of waffles.  Every switch of the gearbox makes we wonder if we’re stuck in mud.  Every position of the accelerator is an exercise in chaos theory, and pushing it all the way to the floor in 4^th or 5^th is just as likely to cause deceleration as acceleration.  That being said, it has some surprising features for a €15,500 car: adaptive cruise control, active lane keep that acts more like self-drive on the highway, and lane change assist, none of said technology that the geniuses in Stuttgart thought to put in my 911 Turbo S.

The first leg of the trip puts us on coastal roads that wind along the mountainside.  Besides having to go into first gear a disconcerting number of times while still moving, the ride is beautiful and goes smoothly despite the weather.  We arrive in Senj in time for a hydraulic break… WC and cappuccino at a café in a seaside resort town that apparently closed a few weeks ago.  It’s nice enough but challenging to find a coffeeshop that doesn’t smell like a 1980s nightclub as everyone here seems to have reverted to smoking.

The last 90 minutes of the trip puts us on true mountain passes, complete with tight switchbacks, steep drop-offs and a complete lack of guardrails.  The kind of roads Mandy really loves, but the Eggo isn’t even fast enough for me to scare her.  Once over the biggest mountains, we enter the rolling hills of an agricultural area.  Every mile or so there’s another stand selling fresh made cheese and local honey, which, if you know Mandy at all, is her idea of heaven.  Eventually we stop at one and get a too-big-to-cart-around-on-vacation wheel of “Sir”, 4 different cheese varieties, and a too-big-to-carry-on-the-plane-but-we’re-going-to-anyway jar of Med Vrijesak, honey fortified with bee pollen for increased health benefits.  Mandy is a happy puppy as we bounce on down the road.

We arrive at Plitvice Lakes National Park around 1:30.  Despite the forecast of “clearing”, no amount of stalling was going to give us relief from the rain.  We hike, we have gear, so we don the rain jackets and head in.  Plitvice Lakes National Park was created around a series of cascading lakes which flow into each other through hundreds of waterfalls, which, if you know Mandy, is how she thinks one gets to heaven.  Just inside the entrance we get or first glimpse of Veliki Slap, literally translated to “The Great Waterfall”, a towering 256 foot high with dozens of spouts.  Our vantage point from here is almost even with the top and a great photo spot by design, making this feature accessible to virtually every person of every ability.  We hike down the gravel path to the base of Veliki and it’s even more impressive from this vantage point.  We feel the power as the mist soaks us even more then the rain. 

The hike proceeds along wooden walkways, some right over the surface of the lakes, some right along the tops of waterfalls, providing an outstanding perspective of the way of the water.  Even with the weather, the lakes glow a stunning blue-green.  We hike onto Station P2, where fortunately there is a grill for us to finally get some lunch.  Hikers of all ages and languages are huddled into the small shack for a respite from the rain, which shows no signs of stopping.  The thick burgers hit the spot, as much for the taste as for the fact that we haven’t eaten since breakfast. 

Today’s hike, marked as Trail B, involves a few unique features.  The next leg of this hike involves a ferry to the next leg and we board with an entire group of Chinese tourists.  The electric powered boat is silent, so it’s a peaceful trip through the mist across the lake.  A few more hiking legs past a myriad of falls of every size (and one shuttle) bring us back to the start, soaked but happy.

It’s a blessedly short drive the Zrinka House, our inn for the next 2 nights.  We’re greeted by Zrinka her fabulous self, and welcomed, mothered, bosomed into the warm embrace of her hospitality.  Handed wine and snacks, we meet Barbara, Zrinka’s daughter, just in from watching a soccer match with friends and who is every bit as warm and welcoming and charming as her mother.  We’re shown to our room, 4, a charming and well-appointed one bedroom apartment.  We set our soaking gear on the cast iron radiators and heated towel rack with hopes they dry in time for tomorrow.  The nap is well deserved and deep.

On Zrinka’s recommendation we have dinner at Dejenia, the eatery of the small hotel of the same name.  The food and service do not disappoint and you can tell they specialize in comforting weary adventurers with fresh local food and wine.  Back at the hotel we stop in the breakfast room where Zrinka has thoughtfully left out some local liquors for our late-night enjoyment (OK, it’s probably only 9:30…).  There we meet Marybeth, a fellow traveler in search of a nightcap for her husband.  We smell-test the bottles, then spill a healthy pour of clear brandy with notes of pears and black currants into crystal tumblers.  Deep sleep comes without delay.

VENICE CROATIA DAY 5 – One Beach, Four Heads and Thirty-Two Tentacles

One Beach, Four Heads and Thirty-Two Tentacles

The Istrian Peninsula is that jut of land in the top right corner of the Adriatic Sea, shared by Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. We wake this morning smack dab in the middle of the Istrian coast and look out over the quiet lagoon onto old town Rovinj. When we told people that we were planning a trip to Croatia, they broke into distinct groups: a minority who had been there (or knew someone who had) and we’re excited, and the majority who simply asked “Where? Why?” To that majority I posit that this view on this peninsula is reason enough to drop everything and fly here. Add very reasonable prices and very friendly people, and you’ll understand why this is one of the fastest growing vacation destinations on the planet. Get here before everyone knows.

The hotel breakfast buffet is extensive covering all the bases for the international clientele. The common spaces in the hotel are clean and modern, the varying textures of the monochromatic scheme calming and soothing.

After breakfast and a bit of Old Town shopping we head to Lone Beach for some lazy suntime and a dip in the cool blue sea. It’s a rock beach and once again we sing the praises of our cheap Amazon water shoes. We doze on and off then wander poolside for a very respectable pizza lunch. When we return to our loungers, we surprised to see two people have set up towels inches on front of our chairs on this mostly empty beach. Damned shoobies are everywhere, but fortunately they scurry off after a short while.

Around the perimeter of the lagoon is Golden Cape Forest Park The Nature Trail, a stone path dotted with small public beaches and plenty more spots to lay in the sun or enter the water. The park itself was created in the late 1800s by an entrepreneur who started the process of afforestation, creating a rich landscape with paths, promenades and meadows. There’s a busy little concession stand that works as a beach bar, and locals drink, smoke, chat, play cards and generally beach at the scattered picnic tables. We walk the trail until we’re about 180 degrees from our chairs and get some beautiful pix from a new perspective.

A little more beach time and we head to the hotel spa. Soaking pools, saunas, hot tubs and steam rooms pamper our bodies and spirits. Sunset on the balcony. Vacation is nice.

Tonight we dine at Santa Croce, a restaurant in the old village with tables along a tiered terrace. We start with a “mature wine”, a white of 2022 vintage and they’re pretty proud of their patience with this one. We get the Grilled Fish Plate For 2, a variety of today’s catch simply cooked with salt and olive oil, complete with 4 heads and 32 tentacles. It’s marvelous and Mandy comments how, just a few years ago, she wouldn’t have gone near the dish. Funny how travel changes you.

VENICE/CROATIA DAY 4 – Slovenia and Rovinj

 

After one last (very nice) champaign breakfast at the St Regis, we board a water taxi to Roma Square.  Waiting there for us is Boren, the driver we hired to take us into Croatia.  He’s a native Croatian and offers us a wealth of information about the places we pass and the places we’re going later in the trip.  The drive to Rovinj takes about two and a half hours through some beautiful scenery.  On the way through Slovenia, we decide to take a break, if for no other reason then to say we were in Slovenia.  Boren knows of a little café at the top of a mountain pass with good coffee and great views.  It’s a funny little place, not much more then a coffee shop, but it’s our kinda place… lots of family behind the counter, good energy, friendly banter.

We arrive in Rovinj and have Boren drop us off at the car rental office.  We pick up our Toyota Aygo X and head to the Lone Hotel.  We’re checked into room 425, a fantastic corner suite with two massive sliding glass doors which open onto twin balconies.  We have sweeping views of the landscape and the Adriatic Sea and we soak in the sights.

Old Town Rovinj is an ancient fishing port dominated by the massive church at the top of the hill.  We walk down a winding footpath into the village and stop for lunch along the curved promenade by the sea where we’re treated to some beautiful local fish and “fresh wine”, the term here for this year’s vintage of white wine.  It’s sunny and hot as we leave to wander the delightful old town, popping in and out of the little shops and generally just strolling for an hour or so.

Back at the room, we slide open the massive window-walls and let the warm breezes blow through the suite as we nap.  It’s all very dramatic and romantic, the sheers blowing, the sounds of the sea, the sun heading towards the horizon, a bright rainbow for good measure.

Dinner tonight is at Puntalina, a well-reviewed café with terraced seating stepping down the sea wall.  More then half their tables are outdoors and only some of them are covered, so tonight’s rain causes the staff to scramble to seat all the reservations.  After a brief wait, we get a lovely table and start chatting with Duncan and Janet, the nice British couple at the table next to us.  The conversation is easy, from food to travel to sports to family.  It’s close to 10 when the rain returns in earnest, so the four of us find a table inside the now mostly empty restaurant, sharing one last drink, a bit of dessert and a few more laughs before calling it a night.