One Beach, Four Heads and Thirty-Two Tentacles
The Istrian Peninsula is that jut of land in the top right corner of the Adriatic Sea, shared by Italy, Slovenia and Croatia. We wake this morning smack dab in the middle of the Istrian coast and look out over the quiet lagoon onto old town Rovinj. When we told people that we were planning a trip to Croatia, they broke into distinct groups: a minority who had been there (or knew someone who had) and we’re excited, and the majority who simply asked “Where? Why?” To that majority I posit that this view on this peninsula is reason enough to drop everything and fly here. Add very reasonable prices and very friendly people, and you’ll understand why this is one of the fastest growing vacation destinations on the planet. Get here before everyone knows.
The hotel breakfast buffet is extensive covering all the bases for the international clientele. The common spaces in the hotel are clean and modern, the varying textures of the monochromatic scheme calming and soothing.
After breakfast and a bit of Old Town shopping we head to Lone Beach for some lazy suntime and a dip in the cool blue sea. It’s a rock beach and once again we sing the praises of our cheap Amazon water shoes. We doze on and off then wander poolside for a very respectable pizza lunch. When we return to our loungers, we surprised to see two people have set up towels inches on front of our chairs on this mostly empty beach. Damned shoobies are everywhere, but fortunately they scurry off after a short while.
Around the perimeter of the lagoon is Golden Cape Forest Park The Nature Trail, a stone path dotted with small public beaches and plenty more spots to lay in the sun or enter the water. The park itself was created in the late 1800s by an entrepreneur who started the process of afforestation, creating a rich landscape with paths, promenades and meadows. There’s a busy little concession stand that works as a beach bar, and locals drink, smoke, chat, play cards and generally beach at the scattered picnic tables. We walk the trail until we’re about 180 degrees from our chairs and get some beautiful pix from a new perspective.
A little more beach time and we head to the hotel spa. Soaking pools, saunas, hot tubs and steam rooms pamper our bodies and spirits. Sunset on the balcony. Vacation is nice.
Tonight we dine at Santa Croce, a restaurant in the old village with tables along a tiered terrace. We start with a “mature wine”, a white of 2022 vintage and they’re pretty proud of their patience with this one. We get the Grilled Fish Plate For 2, a variety of today’s catch simply cooked with salt and olive oil, complete with 4 heads and 32 tentacles. It’s marvelous and Mandy comments how, just a few years ago, she wouldn’t have gone near the dish. Funny how travel changes you.
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