VENICE CROATIA DAY 10 – Young Salt

 

A day on the water is always good for the soul, exploring tiny islands good for the sense of wonder.  It’s late season so there are plenty of boats available and the owners are willing to deal a little.  We pick a 25’ RIB, a Rigid Inflatable Boat with a 175HP outboard, fast, light and maneuverable, well suited to exploring little coves and passageways of the Pakleni Islands.  The owner of the small fleet of rental vessels introduces us to Rocco, our young, handsome captain for the day.  We prefer an Old Salt, but we figure he’s probable grown up on the sea.

The water is smooth as we make our way to Vis Island.  First stop is Stiniva Cove.  There’s a narrow passage at the back of the cove, only a few meters wide and we swim towards it, through it.  The other side opens to one of the most picturesque beaches we can imagine facing out to a curve of tall cliffs.  We sit for a few minutes, panting from the long swim, taking in the scenery. 

Next stop is the Blue Cave, Croatia’s version of Italy’s famous Blue Grotto, albeit smaller.  Like the Blue Grotto, the Blue cave is created by sunlight filtered through the sea from an underwater opening, and only small rowboats can fit through the opening.  We disembark from the RIB, pay the fee and hop into the little skiff with a handful of others.  It’s high tide, so the opening is so small we have to duck down below the gunnels so as to not bash our heads.  We watch another boat come out and it’s weirdly reminiscent of childbirth.  Once inside the cave really does glow like a sapphire. 

Next stop is Komiza, the island popularized by the filming of Mama Mia there.  We dock and Rocco leads us to Konoba Jastozera for lunch.  It’s a fantastic setting and we take plenty of snapshots, but the food doesn’t live up to the atmosphere.  Walking back to the boat, Rocco chats more freely.  When I ask him how long he’s been a captain, he’s too honest to fib.  “I took a gap year after high school to try to play football (soccer) professionally.  I didn’t make it, so I went to University.  I got my license after classes ended just before summer started.”  Mandy still has not forgiven me for asking that question.

Two last stops.  At Park Bidihovac, we swim at the very lovely, very secluded beach which, inexplicably has a donkey.  The final stop is Marinkovak Island, the one closest to Hvar, known for it’s summertime clubbing scene.  The waters are getting rougher now in the late afternoon, so fortunately it’s just a 10-minute hop back to home port where we disembark and say our goodbyes to the Young Salt.

Back on dry land, we shower and head to Hula Hula Hvar, the popping little day club built into the seaside cliff just outside of our hotel.  DJ Bulldog and cheap champaign sets a fun late afternoon vibe.  We settle in to a table right at the rail and wedge the phone into a beer glass to livestream sunset with Mandy’s mom as a way of checking in and sharing our experience. 

The full full moon is low in the sky just above the big cathedral as we walk into Hvar Town for dinner.  Table for 2 at Macondo where we enjoy the seafood and chat with couples on either side until the wee hours of 9:30pm.  It’s been a long day.