Friday, January 25, 2019

Costa Rica Day 2: Ants Marching



We sleep well in the big four poster bed and wake up excited for our day.  Breakfast buffet is exceptional with amazing attention to detail.  Café con leche served in a French press, honey dripping straight from the hive in a contraption made to do just that. 

Dressed for a hike, we drive about 15 minutes to Ecocentro Danaus, a private ecological preserve.  About 25% of Costa Rica is preserved by the government and another 15% is now preserved by private entities, restoring once devastated lands to natural habitat and encouraging responsible ecotourism.  We are paired with Amanda, our guide for this morning.  She explains that this park is only 20 years old, the land having been restored after being virtually clear cut.  We would have never guessed the forest is lush and dense.  She has powerful binoculars hanging from her neck and explains the species that we’re likely to see.  Five minutes in Amanda points out a long line of leaf cutter ants, each ant carrying a chunk of green many times larger then themselves.  She explains that the line can go on for several kilometers as the ants insist on a certain type of leaf and have very high quality standards.  She goes on to explain that the ants don’t eat the leaves but emulsify them and use them to feed a mushroom they grow for food.  “Damned industrious farming” I think to myself as Dave Mathews’ Ants Marching plays in my head.  She points out other exotic plants and features and we head into the butterfly preserve, netted space designed to raise local species before setting them loose into the world.  Great colors and lots of fun. 

I’ve upped my lens game for the trip, buying a high-quality zoom for my DSLR, one of the grey ones you see on the sidelines of football games.  I’m hoping to put it to good use, and I don’t have to wait long.  As we approach the pond, we spot a boat billed heron perched on a log by the water’s edge.  The lens is fast and bright, performing just as I had hoped, capturing great images in the cloud filtered light.  Amanda points up, high in a nearby tree at what appears to be a furry brown and white pillow.  Focused in, he’s a big three toed sloth, just slothing there in his branch.  Around the other side of the pond we spot more herons, this time a mother in a nest with two chicks.  Already the lens is worth it.  With Amanda’s help, we shoot an amazing array of plants and animals and get a good understanding of the place we are in.  Amanda is excited and almost speechless as she spots a bespectacled owl, a rare get in these parts and only the second time she has ever seen one.  Click, click, click, click as we take tons of exposures.  As we are leaving, we see that the sun has burned off the clouds and we get a rare opportunity to see the entirety of Arenal Volcano.

Headed back towards the hotel, we stop for lunch then head into the Ecothermales, one of the many hot springs in the area.  The same chamber that caused the volcano to erupt in the 1500s and again in 1968 now serves to heat some of the springs to 122F.  In some places the springs are nothing but warm rivers, in others entire resorts have been developed around them.  Ecothermales is one of the more quiet of these places, with 6 or 7 pools, each running into the next and getting a little cooler as they get further from the source.  We start at the coolest and work our way up, only lasting in the hottest for a few minutes.  A brisk dip under a cool waterfall brings our body temperatures and heart rates back closer to normal.

Back at the resort, dinner is at Asia Luna, an Asian/Latin fusion restaurant.  We purposely pick the most fusion dishes, including the Kani roll, a crab sushi topped with grilled plantain.  The flavors mix amazingly well.  Tired muscles and good wine make the for a great night’s sleep.


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