ZION BRYCE GRAND CANYON DAY 3 – EMERALDS AND WATCHMEN

 

We get another early start on the day, strong coffee and filling breakfast sambos and in the park before the shuttles start running at 7.  Sunrise is 7:15, but here it’s more of a process then a specific time.  As we head deeper into the park, we see the start of light shining on the top of the western peaks.  glowing gold leaf in contract to the muted shadows that envelop us.  The white sandstone on the mountains is a very pale olive green, while the rest is shades of muted grays and browns.  A group of big turkey vultures cobble up hill at the edge of the road in search of their breakfast. 

We get off at stop 5 in front of the Zion Lodge, the historic hotel inside the park.  Crossing the road, we start on today’s first hike to the Emerald pools.  The start of the trail is paved, rolling, wooded, shady and, at this early hour, peaceful.  Without too much elevation change, we arrive at our first destination, the Lower Emerald Pool.  An actual oasis in the desert, the pool is created from the falling water coming from the top of the tall rock formation which creates a naturally occurring curved amphitheater.   As we take in the scene, a hummingbird shows up out of nowhere and hovers just inches from Mandy’s cheek, the soft brapp of its wings she dubs the Hummingbird Kiss.  A woodpecker with a deep burgundy chest hops from one branch to the next, not clocked in yet, still deciding which tree will be the object of his work today.  The water is not crashing from a single waterfall, rather a series a trickles, misty drops and gentle splashes from all around the arc of the top rim.  Between the water, the wind and the few animals, the soundtrack is mesmerizing, hypnotic.  While the sun has risen over the theoretical horizon and lit the sky, only a few rays are peaking through the high peaks to our immediate east, and those rays are bouncing around this canyon floor, playing games with the falling droplets and the surface of the green water.

Pulling ourselves away, we head up the steep, winding stairs carved into the stone.  We’re in no rush as we realize the hikes in this park are simply some of the most fun we have ever been on.  Fluffy yellow brown sand covers the ground making the trail feel like a beach walk and the angled rock as slippery as ice.  We navigate carefully stopping frequently to admire our constantly elevating views.  We reach the Middle Emerald Pool, a still, shallow pond 10 yards in circumference with a cliff at its edge.  It’s the original infinity pool, appearing as if the bath just falls off the edge of the earth.  The back wall of the area is formed by the Navajo Sandstone rock face and the trees form a sort of dome over the whole thing, giving the space a lush, intimate jungle feel.  We’re rising at about the same rate as the sun, the dimmer continuing it slow slide up, changing the colors of the rock as it goes.

Sunrise is fully realized as we reach the Upper Emerald Pool, a still mirror of a swimming hole, 150 feet across, perfectly reflecting the rocks and trees.  It’s hard to make out the line where reality ends and reality’s reflection begins, like some kaleidoscopic photo effect.  The directly lit rock is now deep orange red with the top sandstone perfectly white like snowcaps.  The few people with us are quiet, whispering as if to respect the sanctity of a church.  We sit and stare and take pictures from every angle we can think of, then its time to move on, give the next hikers their time to enjoy this place.

We take the Kayenta Trail back towards the Grotto, yesterday’s starting point.  It’s a ledge trail, skirting the edge of the mountain as it descends to the floor of the canyon.  Wide ears of cacti are clumped together in openings that are not shaded by tree branches, just a few starting to bloom their bulbus dark purple cactus flowers.  The gentle ½ mile drop is a welcome cool down.

It’s still early, so after a quick stint in the park shop, we head out for our second hike of the day.  The Watchman Trail starts right behind the visitor’s center along the banks of the Virgin River.  As we start up the first real ascent, we’re stopped by a few other hikers who point out a heard of Desert Bighorn Sheep in the narrow canyon below.  About a dozen in all, they are unfazed by us watching them lunch on the green vegetation. 

The terrain itself is a riot of fallen rock, littered with stones like the mountain cast away so many of its unwanted toys.  The weather is perfect, the sky a surreal cloudless blue backdrop which makes nature pictures a breeze (Suck it Ansel Adams!  Color rules!)  At the top of the peak, there is a ½ mile loop which affords us stunning panoramic views of the entire valley and the town of Springdale below.  About noon now, and the overhead sun has changed the colors once again, rich saturation making the rocks deep and vibrant.  The trip down should be easier, but we’re tired and hungry and the loose rock means we have pay attention to each step. 

Safely at the bottom, we beeline for the Zion Brewery to relive yesterdays lunch of Elk Burgers and icy cold craft beer.  We can happily report that yesterday’s meal was no fluke as today’s elk is just as juicy, the fries just as crispy and the Juicy IPA is just as juicy.  Mandy was actually craving another Ascender Hefeweizen, the first time she has ever craved a beer in her entire life.  Did. Not. Disappoint.

A full day on the books and it’s only 2pm.  Time for some serious vacating.  We choose two comfy loungers by the pool and decide on some hydrotherapy.  The pool can’t be more then 65 degrees, a shock to the system when we dip in, but the cold works magic on swollen joints and sore muscles.  A short soak in the hot tub, another quick round in the pool, then a nice doze on our chez.  Mandy booked a massage with hot stones and aromatherapy which set her right for the days ahead.

Dinner in town at the Spotted Dog Café, a locally owned, locally sourced bistro just a few hundred yards from our hotel.  Like everywhere else we have been in Springdale the service was professional and exceptionally friendly.  Mandy got the Rocky Mountain Red Trout which was exceptional, and I got the Wild Game Meatloaf, hardy and satisfying.  We watch the light play its final tricks on the mountains, a kind of glowing finale that feels as much powered by the residual heat as the last reflected rays of the sun.  One last thing before bed.  We drive out past the edges of town to watch the stars without the interference of manmade light.  We park on the side of a remote road and the stars are nice, but we’re disappointed because of the bright glow from the next town.  Until…  we realize that there is not another town for 20 miles.  The bright glow reveals itself to be the nearly full moon, which we watch “rise” diagonally from behind the mountain, casting remarkable light and shadow shapes on the peaks in front of us.  It’s always an adventure.  Not usually the one we set out to have, but always an adventure.

ZION BRYCE GRAND CANYON DAY 1&2 – WHERE ANGELS FEAR TO TREAD

Although Mandy and I have traveled extensively, there are still plenty of places in the good ole US of A on our bucket list.  We love hiking and are huge fans of the National Parks system, so now it’s time to fill in some very obvious gaps on our “been-there” list.  We fly from EWR to LAS, rent an SUV and head off across the desert.  3 quick hours and we pull into Springdale, Utah.  We check into the The Cliffrose, one of the few hotels within walking distance to the entrance of Zion Nation Park.  Late afternoon so we have a bit of time to wander in and get our bearings.  The rangers are a wealth of knowledge, and we make our plans for the next few days.  Quick walk back to the hotel and we’re ready for dinner.  To our surprise, The Cliffrose comes with unlimited use of Cadillac Escalade and friendly staff driver to shuttle us around.  We’re digging this town already.  Dinner is at The Bit and Spur, a local saloon/restaurant and a favorite with the locals for good drinks, great local beer their ability to make every dish better with chimichurri.  We crash when we get back to the room as the rangers warned us to get an early start to beat the crowds and the heat. 

The next morning comes too soon, but we’re geared up and out the door by 6:30.  Strong, locally roasted coffee takes the edge off the cool morning, and we walk into the park.  Private vehicles are not allowed in the park, but there is a shuttle bus system that takes you to the start of each trail.  The ranger was not kidding about starting early, and there are hundreds of people already in the cue for the busses.  The system runs like a well-oiled machine and after a few minutes of chatting with others in line we’re loaded up and down the road.  Fellow hikers on the bus excitedly share details of yesterday’s triumphs and today’s challenges.

We disembark at Stop 6, cross the road and head off to tackle Angel’s Landing, one of the world’s most renown hikes.  This 5-mile hike really does have it all: 1500 feet of elevation rise, two sets of mountainside switchbacks, narrow canyon passes and stunning views at every turn (oh yea, and 13 fatalities since 2000).   Starts off easy enough on Grotto Trailhead, a gentle grade along a river where you see the monolith that is Angel’s Landing.   

We got this.  Until we hit the first set of switchbacks on West Rim Trail.  Long steep avenues between the U-turns have us winded already, questioning our fitness and our preparedness.  I make Mandy “stop for pictures” a few times so my pulse can return to double digits.  One guy we pass names this part of the trail “The Striptease” as every hiker pulls off their morning layers as the sweating begins in earnest.  

The next ascent is Refrigerator Canyon, blessedly shaded as the morning sun is already starting to bake the rocks.  The Canyon ends at Walters Wiggles, a series of 24 short, steep switchbacks that reminds Mandy of Lombard Street in San Francisco.

But if you ask anyone who ever did this trek, they will only tell you about the last half mile to the top.  At the top of the Wiggles we reached Scout’s landing, then passed onto Hogsback, an impossibly steep, impossibly narrow ridge with drop-offs 1000’ on either side.  

It’s followed up by the even more ridiculous final ascent, crazily pitched, 1200 feet up with no guardrails that you traverse by pulling yourself along chains fastened into the stone.  As you literally dangle for your life, you think “don’t look down”.  Then you realize that’s where all the best views are.  So it’s go up 20 feet, find safe purchase, admire the amazing views and take more pix.  You get to know the hikers in front and in back of you pretty quickly as you dangle, pull and crawl your way up, up, up.  

We finally reach the very top and the reward is overwhelming.  You’re at the tippy-top of the mountain.  Views in all directions are breathtaking.  A few dozen other brave souls share your perch and are as excited as you to be there.  We sit.  We stare.  We take mental pictures and digital ones.  We breathe the thin air and understand how profoundly lucky we are to be here. 

After a bit, we sit and break out some food we packed.  Along our route we saw chipmunks scurrying around, but clearly their favorite place is here at the top.  While we did not see anyone intentionally feeding the little guys, there is nothing they like more than sharing your trail mix.  To that end, the minute you put your backpack down, three or four come in from every direction to work their scam.  One comes right up to you, sits up on their back feet, and just plays the cute, friendly critter angle.  Meanwhile, two or three of his buds are coming in from all angles, trying their best to get into your backpack and make off with the booty.  It’s adorable.

Down the mountain is faster, but scarier.  By this point the crowds on the trail are growing, bottlenecking some of the narrowest, most harrowing parts of the trail.  Some complain about the number of people on the trail.  Some call for limiting the hikers through a lottery or permit system.  The hikers we encountered demonstrated grace and cooperation and worked out an impromptu method so that everyone passed safely, joking with each other along the way.  I realized that the National Parks, and especially the popular hikes there, may be better as a shared experience, like seeing a great movie in a big dark room full of strangers.  Not only do you have your own experience, but you can experience it through others’ eyes as well.

Back down it’s time for lunch.  Conveniently, there’s a microbrewery just steps from the entrance of the park.  Elk burgers and local suds recharge us nicely and Mandy says her Hefeweizen is the most satisfying beer she has ever drank.  Refreshed (and probably delusional) we decide to add a second hike today.  Shuttle to the end of the line to do River Walk, a relatively flat 2-miler where you can watch the Virgin River turn a 200-yard-wide swatch of desert between two tall vertical rock walls into a lush, lively landscape.  River Walk ends at The Narrows, Zion’s famous through-the-river hike.  The Narrows has you trapsing through water from ankle deep to waist deep, but we pass because the naturally occurring (but toxic) algae bloom that turned the river milky green about a week ago.

Happily spent, we retire to our hotel’s pool for a well-deserved pre-dinner soak.